A Full Irish Breakfast On our first morning at the Charleville Lodge in Dublin, I awoke to the sound of maids in the corridor. They beat pillows with dull thunks…
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In July of 1999, I sat on a bench atop the Palatine Hill in Rome, as alone and grief-stricken as I have ever been. I was twenty-one years old, and…
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I arrived in Rome at the end of a hot June, to study Italian for a month the summer between my junior and senior years of college. I hadn’t brought…
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Everyone keeps asking if I’m tired and I should be, definitely, given the one hour flight plus four hour layover plus seven hour flight in the opposite direction of the…